BAMBERG DAY 4

The day dawned bright and sunny and strong coffee was the order of the day and what better place is enjoy this then in the shadow of the Altes Rathaus (city hall) built on its own little island in the middle of the Regnitz River the original half timbered building with the gothic exhibition centre on the left with it’s three dimensional cherub mural whilst watching the world go by. Dominating the Bamberg skyline are the four massive towers of city’s cathedral which is the first stop on our cultural tour being Sunday we can only peep inside the 11th century building.

We continue walking up past two palaces both former residences of the Bishops of Bamberg, the half timbered Old Court built in the 15th century and the 17th century New Residence with it’s baroque wings and surrounding rose garden from which we have a stunning view of the whole town. After a pit stop we reach the Seehof Palace with it’s large cascade and 18th century orangery.

It’s time for lunch so we head back down to the town meeting up with the rest of our party in Bamberg’s newest brewpub the Ambrausianum opened in August 2004 and selling draught hell, dunkel and weizen a long narrow bar with light wooden tables on the right which give the bar a nice cheery look. The pasta was good and substantial the beer acceptable well they have another few hundred years to catch up with the rest of the town.

We head off down to the river and decide to enjoy a boat trip we embark by the granary and enjoy a cooling ice cream, ok some had a rauchbier. The first part of the trip was interesting passing the old fisherman’s cottages that literally are built on the rivers edge we then pass through a large lock and that is where the scenery ends as we are now in the industrial part of the town by the stoneworks, enough said. (at least we missed out the sewage works, ED)

Back in town more refreshment is required with a little help from our map we find the Klosterbrau with outside tables and inviting sunshades. Draught beers Bamberger gold (pils) schwarzla (black lager) and the amber braunbier. Gastsatte is the oldest brewery dating back to 1533.We are amazed to see a elderly lady on the next table knock back a full stein, must be good beer so we stop for another to confirm the point and yes it was excellent.

As this was our last evening in Bamberg all agreed that we would head towards the beer gardens for a relaxing evening and a final few beers. First port of call is the Maisel-Keller with it’s rustic tables and horse chestnut trees for shade and a refreshing glass of Bamberger weisse. The extensive garden is close to the brewery who used to store or lager the beer in the hills for summer consumption.

A short hike up the hill is the 800 seat Special-Keller. By now it seems that the whole of Bamberg is enjoying the beer and the superb view of the city below. We find a vacant table and krugs of rauchbier arrive courtesy of a friendly waitress, although not friendly enough to offer summer lodgings to Robin the radler drinker (ginger beer to you and me). This is the perfect place to end our short trip to Bamberg, a packed beer garden with young and old enjoying a Sunday evening drink.

A great place with friendly people who enjoy a beer and drink plenty but in a responsible way long may Bamberg continue to prosper.
P.S. What is the German for the platform of the train to Frankfurt Airport has changed. (I think it was schisse, ED!)

Rog, International Correspondent

Bamberg Day 3: Hangover cure!!!

After 2 days drinking in Bamberg a hardy 8 decided on a trip to the nearby town of Forchheim a 15 minute train journey towards Nurnberg. Arriving in a strange town with only the names of streets to go by meant we needed to purchase a cheap map at the station. Our destination found we had to navigate across the town square which was holding a sale of children's toys, a kind of blanket sale where youngsters sell of their surplus/used toys to younger kids. The buildings abounding the square have a distinctive Swiss charm with steep roofs and shuttered windows.Our first stop is the cafe of the Brauerei Greif with wooden tables and chairs outside. By now the sun is shining bright so we seek the shelter of a brewery umbrella. A large range of beers, pale and dark unfiltered wheat beers, pale and dark lagers and Pils (5.3%) the latter seems the popular choice as a hangover cure. The beer was pleasant and a great first drink of the day. Founded in 1848 the brewery is still in the same family, the cafe is nothing special inside but we decide to stay for a glass of Dark Lager (5.2%). Our next stop was a literally a short hop and we had only moved approx 20 yards when we found ourselves outside the Brauerei Hebendanz. The colourful outside is a bit misleading as the cafe is basic with minimal decoration: a local's hostelry. Again we decide to sit outside and order Pils. Established in 1579, so should know what they are doing, the beer was hoppy and refreshing just what was need after the long two strides we took! If the last cafe was a short hop away the next stop was next door: the Brauerei Neder. No tables outside so we ventured inside the bar which was well populated but we found a large table, the bar had unusual lamp fixtures with plants lining the windowsills. We ordered from the friendly landlady the house beer direct from a wooden barrel. Either our taste buds had woken up or this was the best beer so far. Stephen joined us but fish was off the menu. Before we could order a second beer the wooden barrel ran out but using a sort of dummy waiter a new barrel was in place within minutes. The landlord was called over and he tapped the new barrel before returning to his card game. A second beer was ordered and enjoyed before we decided to move on as hunger was calling. The fourth call was a stroll away so with map in hand we set off to find the Brauerei Eichhorn a large frontage with a wooden door which led to a small courtyard with the bar on the right with a typical wooden franconian decor. Pils was ordered whilst we tried to make sense of the menu and with the help of our fellow drinkers lunch was organised. The Pils was pleasant but not as tasty as the beer from the previous brauerei's but the food was just what was required to satisfy 8 + 1 hungry travellers. Whilst in Forchheim we were curious as to the reason some of the houses had the names of the 3 wise men, Gaspar, Melchior and Balthasar and the year chalked over their doors. This we discovered was a local custom and done as sign of good luck to the inhabitants of the house. We leave Forchheim a delightful town with a great brewing heritage as it is time to head back to the station and return to Bamberg.

Being around the back of the train station when we arrive back in Bamberg, we decided to visit the Cafe Abseits to sample some Maibock's (spring beers). Great little beer garden, great selection of regional breweries beers. For details of what beers we drank please contact the waitress (seem to remember her asking me on the night without much luck!! ED). Our walk back to the hotel was slightly meandering and many thanks to the birthday boy who was visiting his second girlfriend of the night, but took time out from his schedule of indiscretions to make sure we did not get lost.

Micro-brewing in Belgium

Brewery visits are always interesting and vary from the large multinational beer factory through to the regionals with their historic brew houses and now a new wave of purpose built micro breweries than are often little more than a brewery in a garden shed !!!

Picobrouwerij Alvinne is in the market town of Inglemunster, South West Flanders. As the name suggests, ‘pico’ means small, this is a hobby brewery run by Glen and Davy. The entrance is via an up and over door which apart from the small sign above looks like any other garage. The garage doubles as a store and the bottled beer is sold direct from the premises. Walk through the garden past the children's nursery on the left and you arrive at the brewery which is housed in a large wooden shed.

The brewery is like a visit to a model village, with the coppers and fermentation vessels all in miniature. However what is not in miniature is the impressive range of beers brewed. There are the Blond and Bruin at 6%, then came Extra and Tripel at 7% followed by Balthazar a spiced strong ale at 9%. Recently a special brew Podge (Intrepid Beer Traveller) Belgian Imperial Stout at 10% was brewed for Zythos Bierfestival and a Melchior at 11% is planned. What strength will Gaspar be? Who dares to guess?

In the corner of the brewery is a small bar and a chance for a taste. The established beers were typical full flavoured Belgian styled ales, although the stronger beers, which were spicy and fairly sweet would probably be better if laid down for a while. At the moment the brewery is run as a hobby with a commercial angle in that the beer is sold as off sales. What the future holds we must wait and see as Glenn and Davy are happy to remain enthusiastic hobby brewers.

PS chickens fed on spent brewery grain grow big and lay large eggs. Roger

Bamberg—Day Two

Day 2, dawned well if 9am is dawn, bright and sunny and after a stroll and a croissant by the river we all met at the Fassla which was already busy being open from 8.30am.The plan was to catch a local bus to the edge of town from the Zob (bus station) and after a bit of hokey-cokey we are on our way a friendly passenger shows us which stop we need and after 10 minutes we are at the Brauerei Greifenklau. With summer officially starting last weekend (1st weekend in May) the garden was open and being early we were able to sit in the perfect place to appreciate the spectacular view across the valley to the Altenburg Castle.

Steve was plane spotting in Frankfurt so his namesake stood in for him. The beer was served in Krug's (Stoneware mugs) and we soon noticed that most of the locals had personal lids which prevented seeds from the trees dropping into the beer. The indoor part of the complex was closed but looked like a typical wooden Franconian bar, however the toilet with automatic flush, handwash and towel was very modern. A second beer was required which we noticed was ordered by lying The Krug on it's side and a fresh Pils arrived swiftly. After a light lunch it was time to stroll down the hill and back into town.

We are soon back in the town of Bamberg and after stopping to give Stephen a shower in the town's fountain we find ourselves outside the Schlenkerla the tap of the Brauerei Heller. The outside, half timbered with the pretty blue shutters is more like a picture postcard but once inside you soon realize you are entering somewhere special. Gorgeous dark wood everywhere we find a table in a large room on the right which we learn is called The " Klause, with a spectacular arched ceiling it was used as the house chapel when the building was a Dominican monastery. Closed down and nationalized by the state of Bavaria until 1678 when the brewery was founded. We order the speciality of the house Rauchbier straight from oakwood casks and brewed with the original smokemalt. We soon realize this smoked beer, with it's strong aroma of smokey bacon is an " acquired " taste, the surroundings however give the Schlenkerla a magical atmosphere, a second beer is ordered as we soak up the history.

The writer has arranged to meet Lorenzo Dabove, Italian beer nut and colleague from GBBF at the Mahrs Brau, half of the party decide to stay, so 6 set off for the other side of town a pleasant stroll along by the river.2 breweries in the same street Wunderburg mean a stop before we reach our destination we settle for a glass of Herran Pils in the courtyard of the Brauerei Keesmann whether it was the walk but the beer was excellent: a delicious pils!

We finally arrive at the Mahrs Brau to be met by a coach load of Italian beer enthusiasts who invite us to join them for a trip around the brewery. The brewery is modern and as you would expect clean as a whistle, however as the talk was in German and then translated into Italian so we decide to bale out half way round and sample the beer instead. Mahrs Brau is famous for it's Ungespundete (unfiltered lager) locally known as U we find a table in the biergarten surrounded by ancient chestnut trees and the beer quickly arrives in stone mugs, we soon see why the German people regard this as the best Bamberg beer. The inside is reached via a hall or standing drinking area the taproom with wood panelling and green tiled fireplace is very traditional. I bid a fond farewell to Lorenzo who is about to eat in the large dining room at the rear.

One more stop as we are at this side of town and only 5 minutes away is the Maisel - Keller which is attached to the largest brewery in Bamberg. The brewery has a full range of beers but we choose the Kellerbier and find a table in the very pleasant beer garden. Food is ordered and we settle down to eat when an American asks if he could join us.It turns out he is U.S. army chaplain this is his best posting after 2 middle east tours.A Pleasant end to a long day as we swap stories about the places we have visited that day, we bid farewell and he gives Stephen a dollar for some fish on the way home. Time to return to the Fassla and to meet up with the other half of the party and a nightcap.

Bamberg—Day One

12 members left a cold dark Parkstone at 4am wondering if the decision to visit the town of Bamberg, a UNESCO World Heritage site in Franconia south west Germany seemed a bit crazy. We soon arrived at London Heathrow; it is amazing how quick the journey by minibus is when there is no traffic. Baggage check in well that's another story how many bags did we have? But eventually we were on the plane and flying to Frankfurt and enjoying the in flight food! On arrival at Frankfurt it was only a walk to the airport station a brand new building with a chance for the first beer of the day.

The next leg of the journey was by inter city train to Wurzburg a quick change onto a hot local train and we were on the final leg to Bamberg; Parkstone to Bamberg in 8 hours. On arrival the sky was blue and we could not wait to sample the highly rated beer and food, as most of the people were staying in the Brauerei Fassla we decide to meet there. After a cooling and refreshing shower we are soon crossing the river Regnitz for the short stroll to our meeting point. The impressive large door lead to a covered courtyard (Schwemm) with a mural depicting old Bamberg the bar is on the right with beer obtained via a serving hatch. Indoor or outdoor seated areas are available and the brewery entrance is at the far end of the courtyard.

Beers served directly from wooden barrels are Golden Pils clean dry with hoppy flavour and Lagerbier, additional beers namely Weizen (wheat) and Zwergla are served from the bottle. We find a large table in the outdoor part of the courtyard and the beers begin to flow. A variety of food is ordered mostly sausage based and what was in those dumplings? The beer was excellent and we soon realized why we had made the long journey.
Deciding to move on the we cross the road to the Braurei Spezial and a chance to sample our first smoked beer (Rauchbeer) a style of beer unique to Bamberg. The Spezial has a large tap room with long wooden tables. The service is swift and we are soon enjoying our first smoked beer the beer is certainly different with a aroma of smoky bacon crisps although the flavour is smooth and malty.

The verdict on the beer is mixed so we decide to take a stroll and a breath of fresh air we head for the Bamberger Weissbierhaus only 100 yards down the road.
This is the town centre tap room of the Brauerei Maisel. The brewery is situated on the edge of the town and Bamberg's largest, the Weissbierhaus has two of the breweries beers on draught Pils and Dunkel Premium. The compact bar with long pine tables, a stone floor and panelled walls is only part of a larger building housing a hotel, beer garden and skittle alley.
Finally we stop off for a last beer on the way to our hotel the long day is catching up with some of us so only a hardy few stay for a second beer it has been a long day but our first impression is we have a wonderful 3 days to come.