Wednesday 18 April 2007

Up North’' - Part 1

January, perhaps not the best time of year for not only heading north but heading to somewhere that is better known for its rain (and in January, snow!) than it is for its short winter breaks. Or so you might think…….

Since becoming responsible for organising our branches social activities it has been suggested many times that I take the more intrepid members of our branch back to my home town routes for a tour/pub crawl/stagger around some of the fine pubs that are to be found in Stockport and the fact that we could combine this with a visit to the National Winter Ale Festival in nearby Manchester was an opportunity that could not be missed. So it was that on the morning of the 19th January, thirteen of us set off ‘up North’ to the home of Robinson’s brewery and the breaker of many a fine man, Old Tom. This could turn into a long and very hazy weekend!

Having all arrived safely after our treks up the M40 and M6, we made the short walk to the first pub of the day which was The Nursery Inn, a Hyde’s pub in Heaton Norris. While I remember this national inventory pub as being the place we called at after taking the dogs for a walk on Heaton Norris wreck on a Sunday afternoon, some of you may recall this being CAMRA’s National Pub of The Year in 2001. As everyone filled their glasses from the choice of Hyde’s Mild, Bitter, Jeckylls Gold and Winter Warmer some could be seen heading for the corners of the pub with deep frowns crossing their brow. ‘Was that right?’ said one, re-checking the change in their pocket. ‘I think the bar lady made a mistake’ whispered another, weighed down by an unexpectedly large amount of coins received in their change from a tenner! Yes, the beer is definitely much cheaper in this part of the country and everyone soon realised that, late night kebab munchies aside, this was going to be a very cheap weekend indeed. We all had some lunch to set ourselves up for all the drinking……I mean walking between pubs ahead of us and, as we finished our drinks and took a moment to gaze out and contemplate what the goings on around the pubs immaculately kept bowling green might be like on a warm summers evening (the large glass cabinet brimming with trophies suggests that they have a good team), it was time to commence our tour round Stockport.

Fifteen minutes walk and several successfully identified items of public transport later, we arrived at The Navigation at the top of Lancashire Hill. With its large banner proudly proclaiming its status as CAMRA’s Local Pub of The year in 2003, this is one of two pubs owned by Beartown Brewery from nearby Congleton and gave everyone a chance to sample their rarely seen range of beers. Indeed, the choice of Bruin’s Ruin, Bearskinfull, Kodiak Gold, Wheat Beer and Hoppy New Year pretty much covered the breweries full range and everyone sat back to take in the atmosphere of the large lounge bar and discuss the sharpness of the claws on the large brass beer statue which overlooked proceedings. It was agreed that the pub was worthy of its accolade and in all too short a time our glasses were empty and it was time to head towards the centre of town.

Our next port of call was The Tiviot, a Robinson’s pub located conveniently at the bottom of Lancashire Hill, the speed with which some of the group raced to the bar suggested that all this walking was proving thirsty work or could it just be that they were struggling to slow down as they got to the bottom of the hill!? This multi-roomed back street local was adorned with photographs of Stockport from years gone by, ‘Where’s that taken from?’ came the question’s aimed in my direction - ‘I don’t know, I’m far too young to know where that was’ would be my reply, I’m sure my mum and dad would have a great time reminiscing though! Robinson’s Original and Hatters was only available on gas dispensed pumps so a half was in order before we pressed on. A barrel of Old Tom could be seen lurking in a dark corner of the bar, however there are times when it is worth remembering that fortune does not always favour the brave…….

The Railway, a Porter brewery pub, would have once nestled amongst the cotton mills and hat factories which once formed the heart of Stockport’s industrial base and it is quite easy to imagine the factory workers crowding into the u-shaped bar at the end of their shifts. Today the factories have been replaced by a large retail park but I’m sure that the impressive array of nine Porter ales and two guests have helped satisfy the needs of many a thirsty shopper in a similar fashion to that of the factory workers in days gone by. Amongst the various train themed pictures and artefacts adorning the walls, a black board displays a menu of bottled foreign beers as impressive as the choice of draught beers on the bar and one starts to wonder whether these pub crawls are all they are cracked up to be and that it would surely be better to spend the rest of the evening here. A couple of pints later though and it was reluctantly time to move on to the second Robinson’s pub on the crawl. Back out on the street and….wait a minute…its raining, clearly Stockport has taken a long look at the whole climate change business and decided to give it a wide berth!

Upon arrival at a crowded Arden Arms we are invited into the Snug, a small room located behind the bar, traditionally used by those wishing to play cards games in private, though no gambling of course!? Orders are taken and drinks are brought into us as we sit and dwell in our unexpected exclusivity. Debates commenced about whether the bell push’s located around the room would still work and it was left to Teresa to do the honours and press one of them. Perhaps the reason that they do is why this pub is National Inventory listed and was CAMRA’s National pub of the year runner-up in 2004. Then again, maybe the quality of the beer, the unspoilt traditional decor and the cosiness of the large open fireplace would have much more to do with the awarding of these honours. At least the bar staff found our bell antics amusing and after finishing our drinks and bidding a fond farewell we made our leave.

Next stop was The Spread Eagle, another Robinson’s pub that, although not in the GBG, I included in the crawl as it is the closest to the original brewery. This place has changed little since my last visit and it is not unlike stepping into granny’s lounge, I have a slight sense that I should be waiting to be offered tea and cake! As is to be expected from somewhere that looks like granny’s lounge, the atmosphere is welcoming and friendly, and our short stop for a half of either Hatters or Original is certainly a pleasant one.

Back on the move and heading up into Stockport’s market place we were actually walking in a big circle but with everyone reaching a stage where short term memory, walking in a perfectly straight line and simple calculations of geography was becoming an issue, no one either seemed to notice or complain! We soon arrived at The Thatched House, a bikers pub where four ales including Kelham Island’s Easy Rider and a large range of bottled beers were waiting to greet us. This was the only pub that I had not previously visited and the small main bar is complimented by a side room filled by a pool table. It was obvious that the mish-mash of drums, guitars, packing cases and speaker stands strewn across the floor were soon to be assembled into the instruments for a rock band and the flyers and events lists on the wall intimated that this sort of thing occurred regularly. Suggestions that we should stay and watch the band (I’m sure in such a small venue the atmosphere would be superb) were made but there were more pubs to be visited and my (increasingly wobbly!) mission to get round them was not complete. We finished our beer and amongst comments of disapproval, left the band to finish their tuning up and entertain a crowd of enthusiastic rockers which we would not on this night be a part.

Heading back down Hillgate, past The Spread Eagle (I said we were going round in circles!) we arrived at The Three Shires, a sixteenth century Tudor building in the centre of town. The pub itself is now a modern restaurant/wine bar and the fact that it is often crowded underlines its popularity and quality of food. Three ales including Pride Of Pendle are on offer and the frequently changing range tends to put an emphasis on local micro’s. Although the ambience of the pub is not to everyone’s taste, we all enjoy an excellent quality beer before its time to stagger…..I mean move on.

Our final pub of the day was The Olde Vic, a free house close to the train station and on the outskirts of Edgeley. This free house has five beers are on offer, the pump clips from which might end up being displayed on the ceiling with the vast collection already up there. Elsewhere, this small single room pub is simply (and in some places not at all) decorated and filled with interesting items of furniture and ornaments, not least of which is a full coat of armour which greets the fairer sex in the ladies toilets, something that both spooked and amused Teresa!


Outside, some youths were crashing a car into the wall on the opposite side of the road. A second car appeared, the occupants of which jumped out and, with the help of baseball bats, proceeded to make their own modifications to the appearance of the crashed car! One might have wondered whether the band at The Thatched House were treating their audience to such ‘interesting’ entertainment but by this stage, trying to string words together in order to make anything akin to a coherent sentence was demanding a great deal of concentration which was broken only by the thought of food. Others were thinking the same and before long we were out wandering the streets in search of it - ‘it’ being a Chinese chip shop which we were informed was just up the road. One hefty portion of chips and curry sauce later and it was back to the pub to round off the evening. Those chips were having little success in soaking up the ale though, it was getting late and after listening to my blurry attempt at giving directions back to their hotel, most of the group ventured out in search of the 192 bus stop, leaving myself, Darren and Teresa who were also staying at my parents to finish our drinks. We were not far behind, half expecting to meet everyone at the bus stop but there was worryingly no one to be found. Had they got lost? Were they roaming the streets in search of an Old Tom night cap? Would they all be up in time to venture into Manchester in the morning? And would Charlie, my parents Highland Shelty let us into the house without barking so much as to wake up the whole damn neighbourhood?!


Find out in part two coming soon……………. Steve

No comments:


http://www.takeittothetop.co.uk