Saturday 7 April 2007

Bamberg—Day Two

Day 2, dawned well if 9am is dawn, bright and sunny and after a stroll and a croissant by the river we all met at the Fassla which was already busy being open from 8.30am.The plan was to catch a local bus to the edge of town from the Zob (bus station) and after a bit of hokey-cokey we are on our way a friendly passenger shows us which stop we need and after 10 minutes we are at the Brauerei Greifenklau. With summer officially starting last weekend (1st weekend in May) the garden was open and being early we were able to sit in the perfect place to appreciate the spectacular view across the valley to the Altenburg Castle.

Steve was plane spotting in Frankfurt so his namesake stood in for him. The beer was served in Krug's (Stoneware mugs) and we soon noticed that most of the locals had personal lids which prevented seeds from the trees dropping into the beer. The indoor part of the complex was closed but looked like a typical wooden Franconian bar, however the toilet with automatic flush, handwash and towel was very modern. A second beer was required which we noticed was ordered by lying The Krug on it's side and a fresh Pils arrived swiftly. After a light lunch it was time to stroll down the hill and back into town.

We are soon back in the town of Bamberg and after stopping to give Stephen a shower in the town's fountain we find ourselves outside the Schlenkerla the tap of the Brauerei Heller. The outside, half timbered with the pretty blue shutters is more like a picture postcard but once inside you soon realize you are entering somewhere special. Gorgeous dark wood everywhere we find a table in a large room on the right which we learn is called The " Klause, with a spectacular arched ceiling it was used as the house chapel when the building was a Dominican monastery. Closed down and nationalized by the state of Bavaria until 1678 when the brewery was founded. We order the speciality of the house Rauchbier straight from oakwood casks and brewed with the original smokemalt. We soon realize this smoked beer, with it's strong aroma of smokey bacon is an " acquired " taste, the surroundings however give the Schlenkerla a magical atmosphere, a second beer is ordered as we soak up the history.

The writer has arranged to meet Lorenzo Dabove, Italian beer nut and colleague from GBBF at the Mahrs Brau, half of the party decide to stay, so 6 set off for the other side of town a pleasant stroll along by the river.2 breweries in the same street Wunderburg mean a stop before we reach our destination we settle for a glass of Herran Pils in the courtyard of the Brauerei Keesmann whether it was the walk but the beer was excellent: a delicious pils!


We finally arrive at the Mahrs Brau to be met by a coach load of Italian beer enthusiasts who invite us to join them for a trip around the brewery. The brewery is modern and as you would expect clean as a whistle, however as the talk was in German and then translated into Italian so we decide to bale out half way round and sample the beer instead. Mahrs Brau is famous for it's Ungespundete (unfiltered lager) locally known as U we find a table in the biergarten surrounded by ancient chestnut trees and the beer quickly arrives in stone mugs, we soon see why the German people regard this as the best Bamberg beer. The inside is reached via a hall or standing drinking area the taproom with wood panelling and green tiled fireplace is very traditional. I bid a fond farewell to Lorenzo who is about to eat in the large dining room at the rear.


One more stop as we are at this side of town and only 5 minutes away is the Maisel - Keller which is attached to the largest brewery in Bamberg. The brewery has a full range of beers but we choose the Kellerbier and find a table in the very pleasant beer garden. Food is ordered and we settle down to eat when an American asks if he could join us.It turns out he is U.S. army chaplain this is his best posting after 2 middle east tours.A Pleasant end to a long day as we swap stories about the places we have visited that day, we bid farewell and he gives Stephen a dollar for some fish on the way home. Time to return to the Fassla and to meet up with the other half of the party and a nightcap.

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